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Frybread, colonialism and resistance

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Native American populations in the US have long been subject to stereotyping and destruction of their respective cultures. Throughout the 18th and 19th centuries, Native Americans often found themselves at war with the colonial settlers; however, war did not just manifest physically. American colonists waged war against Native culture itself, attempting to assert the cultural superiority of the white man largely through Christian missions and the capture and destruction of Native lands and landmarks. Another facet of the cultural war was through food. Many traditional Native foods revolved around using local cultivated crops such as maize or beans in addition to local meat varieties whether it be fish in the coastal regions or bison in the plains. As the colonists expanded further and further westward, their dominance and will to take over proved to be too much for many tribes. One of the final tribes to be brutalized by the colonists were the Navajo, native to the Southwestern region; upon being forced to relocate by the US government in the midst of a horrific episode of ethnic cleansing, the Navajo were given staples of flour, sugar, lard, and salt. With this, frybread was born and has become popularly associated with the Navajo tribe to outsiders unfamiliar with tribal customs. It is a symbol of colonialism, pain, and resistance to Native Americans, many of whom attribute frybread to some of the diseases that are common in native populations such as diabetes. In essence, frybread represents the stripping of sovereignty from Native Americans amidst the colonial takeover of the Americans. One can find modern iterations in Arizona, New Mexico, and Utah, with frybread used as Native American tacos or stands making fresh breads with sugar, honey, or jam. While frybread has been reclaimed by Native Americans, its association with colonialism is unknown to most white people that try it.

By Zack Bonnin as part of the LUC project "Decolonising the Plate" led by Dr. Maja Vodopivec

University
Leiden University College
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Location

United States

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