Textiles & Dyes 2022

Ajrak: A textile without borders?

The two textiles shown side by side, are Ajraks-- the blue silk one is from Karachi, Pakistan and the blue-red is a wool-silk scarf produced in Bhuj, India. While deeply visually similar, the textiles are produced in two countries, that though border each other, are divided by political conflict that does not allow trade or travel between the two countries-- even to conduct research. The blue silk scarf is mine and the blue-red scarf belongs to Meera Curam. 

Colonisation of Textiles, Colonisation Through Textiles: 2022

A display section at the Vlisco shop space in Helmond, The Netherlands. 

The clearly 'not-white' non-living mannequin, decked up in African cloth 'Made in Holland' is placed at the end of the factory space between the sanitizer and the toilet. Above the toilet door are photo frames carrying magazine covers and featured media showcasing Vlisco fabrics worn by living 'white' models. 

Woven Cloth at The Janson Holland Shop

Pictured here is a textile produced in India for the Ghanaian cloth market. It is a black and white cloth that appears to use a combination of a type of compound weave and floating warps. The patterns are taken from kente, a fine handwoven cloth originating in central and southern Ghana. It is woven in a way that imitates the structure of true kente, which is comprised of several narrow strips of cloth sewn together at the selvage. Kente is a treasured symbol of wealth and status among the Akan (the family of ethnicities to which the Asante belong) and the Ewe people.

Selling Ikat online - and associating it with Uzbekistan

This screenshot was taken on the webpage of an online shop, called 'Ethnostalgic', on the popular e-commerce platform Etsy. On this platform, shops from all over the world are given the possibility to sell their products to far away customers and communicate with them. The products on sale on the platform are often handmade or locally made, and these qualities are usually remarked in their descriptions in order to increase their value. With this sale model, Etsy has established itself has a successful platform for the trading of local products.

Cameroonian Bag Loom

Pictured here is an example of a Cameroonian “bag loom” set with an in-process piece of raffia cloth. It is likely from a town in the Bamenda grass fields in Cameroon’s northwest region. These particular raffia frame looms are used in Western Cameroon and southeastern Nigeria. Although distinct characteristics distinguish looms made in this weaving area, they are part of a continuum of African upright single heddle looms used from the windward coast to the Congo basin.

Bulamari Local Textile Dyers, Maiduguri. Borno State

Field Work to Bulamari Local Dyeing Centre, Maiduguri, Borno State.

Bulamari Dyers are the Kanuri speaking indigenes of Maiduguri, Borno State. They Specializes in the production of the Kanuri tie and dye attires, especially the Kanuri blue and black fabric known as “Dongashou”.

The findings of the survey carried out at Bulamari Dyeing Center, behind the Shehu Palace in Maiduguri, Borno State are as follows:

Charmadozi

This beautiful embroidery from Afghanistan is commonly done on velvet, in this case a soft royal blue fabric, that highlights the embroidery very well.

Beauty is Composite

Beauty is the quality present in a thing or person that gives intense pleasure or deep satisfaction to the mind, it can also be a combination of qualities, such as shape, colour, or form that pleases the aesthetic senses, especially the sight.

Share & Tell: Patrick Kelly Pin

At our first meeting for the In Situ Graduate School, Textile and Dyes as Transnational, Global Knowledge in Leiden the Netherlands, each participant shared an object, image, textile, etc. that holds meaning for particular reasons. I decided to share a pin that I purchased in Chicago, IL at the Silver Room boutique. The pin features Patrick Kelly (1954-1990), an African American fashion designer who came to fame in France, and was the first American designer to be admitted to the Chambre syndicale du prêt-à-porter des couturiers et des créateurs de mode.

 

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